CozyWorld.net

A rich interactive community for Cozy & other Canard Builders, Owners and Enthusiasts
Welcome to CozyWorld.net Sign in | Join | Help
in Search

Chapter 4

  • Part 2a - The F22 Bulkhead

    With the seatback out of the way (just needing a few touch ups) and our technique approved by our local guru LLoyd it was time to move onto F22.  F22 is the light green bulkhead at the front of the aircraft shown in the picture below.  It actually is built with little ears on the top of each side.  These will end up helping to hold the longerons in place during the build in a later chapter.  Once set up the ears get whacked off!  You'll see the ears during the build below.

    This bulkhead was going to be the standard size so it's just a matter of easily tracing out the figure on the plans.  Once that is done then it's on to the foam.  Here Jan is taking my tracing of the doubler and using a sewing tracing wheel to transfer the lines from the pattern onto the foam.

    The curve will need to be done without the use of the ruler.  Actually, when I tried this technique I found that the ruler made me a little too confident.  Eventually, the tracing wheel would perform an beautiful unplanned/unwanted curve across the pattern and foam.  If I did it without the ruler I was slower and didn't have that problem.  Jan of course worked without those problems.

    We drew over or colored over the traced line with a sharpie.  This was to make the puncture marks on the foam easier to see.

    Here you can see some of the puncture marks in the tracing paper in the curve before it's colored over by the sharpie.

    This is what the marks on the foam look like after coloring in the trace with the sharpie. 

    Now Jan connects the dots to make the lines easier to see for cutting.  She's using a pencil to connect the dots!

    Here's the result of the tracings.

    The plans page that actually shows the foam cutouts (Chapter 2, Page 5 of the second edition of the plans) shows the F-22 doubler upside down from the way we cut it.  We figured why not use the long edge of the foam as the long edge of the doubler?  Less cutting!  Also even if the foam edge isn't square with the edge I can position the tracing so that the cut edges are square when done.

    Time to move on to tracing out the rest of F22.  Hey wait a minute...what's with that Van's Aircraft RV9A t-shirt???  Left over from teh old project no doubt!  It must be time to start looking for a Cozy t-shirt.  Of course I'm not sure we'd want to get them messed up with building.  Maybe it's not a bad idea to use the RV9 shirt for building the Cozy...hmmm...

    Ok, I can do something besides take pictures!  It helps to press hard when you're running the tracing wheel.  This will allow you to see the holes from the tracing wheel in the foam. 

    Here Jan is back to penciling in the tracing line.

    We skip ahead to putting together the cut out pieces of foam that will make the F22 bulkhead.  Here we've laid the cutouts on the tracing paper to make sure we end up with a properly sized F22 bulkhead.  Jan is marking a spare piece of foam for the middle pieces that tie the top and bottom of F22 together.  This is done simple because the foam sheets that came in the kit aren't big enough to make the bulkhead out of one or two peices of foam.

    We're using the Wayne Hick's hinge method of putting the foam pieces together.  This requires that you put a piece of Duck tape fully across the back of the split between the two pieces.  When you lift up the pice of foam, the two pieces are hinged together with the tape to open like a book.

    Then lay two pieces of Duck tape one on each piece of foam along the edge line on the other side.  Notice the ears on each pices of tape to allow you to easily pull the tape off of the foam when done.

    Darn another spot where I could use another picture.  Oh well, check out the link to Wayne's page above.  You prop up the pieces of foam so that they form a teepee exposing the two edges.  Lay a small line of 5 minute epoxy (man this stuff will smell up your work area quick - worse than a Texan eating beans and boiled eggs at a beer party).  Lay the foam back down and wipe any excess off that creeps out between the two peices of tape.  Then remove the two pieces of tape (leaving the back piece on).

    Wait 5 minutes (hence the name Smelly 5 minute epoxy). They should be epoxied together!

    Now remove the tape off of the back for the foam.  Notice now that the two larger pieces of foam and the three smaller pieces are together. 

    Here's the whole part waiting the last 5 minutes.

    We aligned the doubler up on the bulkhead and then drew on the doubler the places we needed to sand down.  This will allow us to match up the two surfaces and have one smooth surface with the two pieces.

    on to Part 2b!

     

  • Part 1 - The Seatback

    After doing the first practice lay-up in Chapter 3 we decided to just move forward and start Chapter 4.  We skipped the confidence builder and the bookend.  Ok, it's called a bookend but really! 

    Oh yeah, the seatback. The seat back is the red part in the picture below.

     

    The first challenge is learning what tools to use and when.  At this point we've 5 minute epoxied the two pieces of foam together to make the seatback.  The 3" added width wasn't an issue but the height was, hence two pieces of foam.  It doesn't really matter whether you glue the foam to the top or bottom, in the end you won't be able to tell.

    In order to get the cut correct for the top of the seatback I tried several different approaches; tilting the head on my jig saw, hacksaw, etc.  The picture below shows the basic setup.  I use the masonite board on top to align the top line of the foam cut.  The backside or bottom line is already cut to the prescribed length.  The idea is to angle cut between the top line or masontite board and the bottom of the foam.  I rough cut with the jig saw and will trim cut with another tool.

    In the end Jan's idea worked the best.  She went into the kitchen a grabbed her ceramic knife.  This is about $80 at a good kitchen store but worth it.  Of course I've promised to replace it...soon...honest!  You can also see where my rough cut went off a little in the picture below.  This was later patched.

     The knife gives an amazing amount of control over the cut.  While it has a sharp cutting edge you can actually grab the edge and use it as a guide without leaving red stains all over the foam.

    Here's another shot showing my rough cut goof. Also notice the extremely fine slice of cut foam you can see on the blade of the knife.  To say you can make paper thin cuts would not be accurate, cut paper thin in half and you'd get closer.

    A close up of the fineness of the cut and the knife.  Also notice the difference between my rough cut and Jan's knife cut.

    After a careful handed knife cut you end up with something like this!

    Ok, I'm really impressed with the knife cut!

    Here we are back to my goof edge.  I wish I had more pictures of the repair.  Jan used the knife to cut a thin sliver of foam to attach into the goof spot.  It worked great!

    My first batch of micro.  I forgot to do a 1:1 ratio of mixed epoxy to micro so out it went and I made another.  I probably could have used it and just mixed more of one solution but since I had never made it before I had no idea what a good batch should look like.  Better to be safe than sorry!

    We've finished the cut and are getting ready to do our first real lay-up!  Since we are going to use the Cozy Girrrls Lo-Vac system we lay down our plastic on the table first.  We overlap the plastic rows by a couple of inches to ensure a good seal.  Again, this is plastic on a roll we had left over from a move.  We bought it at the U-Haul store.

    After the plastic comes the foam.  On the top, the fiberglass needs to hang over the edge of the foam.  That's why the foam appears to hang over the edge of the table; because it does.

    We've positioned the first layer of uni and are starting to spread the epoxy.  We like to pour it on and squeege it out.  (Rememeber this is our first crack at doing this - there may be better ways to do everything!)  The squeeges we picked up at the auto parts store.  There were 2 each of 3 sizes in the package for a couple of bucks. SOLD!

    Another layer of UNI & epoxy.  Then add a layer of peel ply, 3 layers of cheap paper towels, add the Lo-Vac hose and plastic on top.  Make sure the top plastic forms a seal with the bottom plastic, turn on the vacuum pump, weigh it down and watch the clock.

    Eventually I hope to get the garage better organized.  At this point I'm searching for everything and almost nothing has it's place.  However, I want to get started.  I hope to organize as I go.  Here's a picture of the Lo-Vac pump with the all important fan blowing up its...ah...open ended chassis.

    The scratch test the next morning proved the layup should be done.  We had peel-plyed the entire surface and when we took off the peel-ply and looked at the first side I saw some things I wasn't sure about.  Some places in the surface looked like this.

    Here's another shot.  Was it too dry?  Did I do something wrong?

    I posted a question on the forum to see if I goofed and if I did how could I repair it.  http://canardaviationforum.dmt.net/showthread.php?t=3074  It turns out and was later confirmed by Lloyd Gimple (my local down in Albq, guru, Cozy builder/flyer) that the area shown above was alright.  Normally if you don't peel-ply the entire surface what doesn't get peel-plied ends up looking like that.  Ok, I forgot to wet out the peel-ply.  Next time I won't forget.

    Here's Jan cutting away the excess fiberglass.

     

    Now it was time to create a trough and fill it with flox for the glass to glass bond.  Again it was trial and error on what tool to use.  There are probably hundreds of methods that we didn't stumble across that would have been better, but here is how we did the job.  Yelp, that's my FienMaster to the rescue!

    Here's the result.  I probably should have taken out more foam, but everything is a learning curve in Chapter 4.

    We sanded the top, mostly with scraps of the foam we had cut off and rounded the corners per plans.

    We akso tried the box cutter to cut away the foam from the fiberglass.

    We laid up the back side, peel-lied, Lo-Vac'd and cured.  When we pulled off the peel-ply there were a couple of areas we didn't like.  This shows some of the flox that had run underneath the panel and now needed to be sanded off.

    Here's a shot of an area that will need repair.  I gues it's called a delamination, the glass is pulled away from the foam.

    I saw a few more small places where the foam and glass weren't meeting on the edge.  A few more repairs coming.

    I sanded up the excess flox and took the seatback to the EAA Land of Enchanment Airshow that weekend to show to Lloyd Gimple for a master inspection.

    Lloyd agreed that the side needed some repair but the seatback sides actually end up being taped into the fuse sides in a later chapter.  I've seen comments on the forums that some folks feel the seatback side covering is nothing more than a training excercise.&nbs

This Blog

Syndication

Tags

No tags have been created or used yet.
Powered by Community Server, by Telligent Systems